Recently, I had the distinct pleasure of experiencing a guest house in Montego Bay unlike any other that I’ve ever reviewed. I almost couldn’t wait to come home so I could start sorting through my photos and collecting my thoughts about this one-of-a-kind oasis hidden high up in the hills overlooking Montego Bay.
RETREAT is definitely the correct word to describe it.
Where exactly is it?
The location of Waterfield Retreat provides the best of both worlds. It is located far from the maddening crowd of Montego Bay, high up in the hills but it’s still only a ten minute drive to the city. It is very easy to find.
Driving west from Montego Bay on the A1 highway, a good landmark to watch for is a rock wall on your left marked “Spring Gardens”. Just past that wall there’s a left turn marked with a red sign for Clarridge Hill. Once you’ve taken that left turn, you just keep driving up the hill and follow the white markers onto an unpaved, private road.
This road is typically Jamaican….a little rough with one harrowing, hairpin turn. But once you round that turn and drive up a few minutes it’s like the heavens open up and you arrive at Waterfield Retreat – a lone property sitting atop a quiet hill.
When you arrive, before you even meet your hosts, James and Dee Waterfield, you’ll be greeted by Cookie – the most human-acting little Jamaican dog you’ll ever meet. And Vibes – the security guard – aka a beautiful and BIG Doberman.
The Main House
When I arrived, before even seeing my room, James gave me a tour of the main house which is a common area for all guests to leisurely spend their days. Once I stepped inside this common area I forgot all about the fact that I was sleeping elsewhere on the property because all I could focus on was the INCREDIBLE views the minute I walked through the front door.
I’ve never seen anything like it in Montego Bay. I don’t think this view even exists anywhere else in Montego Bay.
The main house area is like sensory overload. I didn’t know what to love first – the view out the front window, the pool area off to the side, the secondary view from the pool deck, or the tastefully decorated interior of the house. I wondered if every guest forgets to care about the sleeping quarters once they see all these views.
After I caught my breathe a little, James showed me to my guest room and just as I suspected from the photos I’d seen online, it was just as stunning as the rest of the house.
There are two duplex-style cottages on the property apart from the main house. One is a one-bedroom accommodation and the other is a two-bedroom accommodation.
The one-bedroom is more like a studio and I didn’t get to personally view it because there were other guests occupying it. It appears that up to four guests can sleep in the studio which is fully equipped with a kitchenette for convenience.
The two-bedroom cottage is where I stayed along with a Canadian friend who was traveling with me. And again, when I walked through the front door of this little cottage, the view took my breath away. I was in awe of the view and the pristine condition of the cottage. Everything in these rooms is so brand new, gleaming, high-tech and GORGEOUS. And hello…..VERY affordable!
James and Dee spared NO expenses when creating Waterfield Retreat. You almost forget that you’re in Jamaica if not for the fact that Jamaica fully surrounds you up here.
Immediately inside the door of the two-bedroom cottage you’re in a common space between the two bedrooms. This space has an expansive view, two sitting areas, and a full veranda. The main area houses a kitchenette, equipped with a coffee maker, kettle, mini-fridge and microwave. There are also cups, mugs, plates, cutlery and a few packets of instant Blue Mountain coffee to get you started in the morning. But don’t worry, fresh brewed coffee is also served with breakfast in the main house.
Inside each bedroom are ULTRA-modern fixtures, decor and beds. James told me they imported everything in this house from England, right down to the luxurious high end mattresses guests get to sink into. The look and feel of these rooms is jaw-dropping.
BEDROOM #1 – The master room
Master Ensuite Bathroom
BEDROOM #2
Ensuite Bathroom #2
And if you want her, Cookie also seems to love bedroom #2 hahahaha.Â
The Hospitality
James and Dee Waterfield are spectacular hosts! They don’t miss a single detail, whether it be candlelit dinners in the dim night light of Jamaica, or simply lighting the bonfire each night in the fire pit beside the pool.
Their living quarters are separate from the common space of the main house so they’re around when you need them. During the day they go on about their daily business of running a guest house, and in the evenings they’re an absolute pleasure to sit by the fire with chatting about life in Jamaica or whatever else comes up.
If guests are here just to “retreat” they’re more than welcome to spend all day lounging around the pool or wandering the beautiful, lush gardens surrounding the house. Alternatively, if guests wish to go on tours and see Jamaica’s attractions they are also on hand to take you. Inside each room is a binder full of places to see and tours one might like to experience, and they’re happy to take you at an additional cost.
It’s very obvious that these two are very proud of what they do here and love to share their piece of Jamaica with guests.
Dining Options
Get ready for this one. The dining at Waterfield Retreat is to die for. James is a Michelin trained chef in his former days so meals here are a whole new experience. And Dee is a vegetarian so her talent in the kitchen just expands what’s already an incredible menu. I suspect if I had stayed more than a couple of days I’d be fat from indulgence unless I ran up and down the hill a few times.
The binders in each guest room also contain menu ideas for breakfast, lunch and dinner although it seems they’re flexible and can modify meals to suit guest needs or desires.
Each morning I had a veggie and cheese omlette which Dee served with fresh cut fruit, toast and homemade preserves. My travel partner had French toast every morning. On our second morning James also fried up some breadfruit that he roasted on the fire the night before.
Since I tend to opt for vegetarian meals, Dee was my best friend during my stay. Her creativity with my meals was magical! My first night I had a veggie burger made from scratch with bean and other ingredients, topped with cheese and fresh lettuce. My travel partner had grilled snapper which I sampled just to see what it tasted like.
My second night I had Dee suggest something else vegetarian that she likes to cook. She opted for coconut curry veggies, coconut rice and yummy steamed veg on the side. My travel partner had breaded chicken breast, which I also tried and it was amazing.
The photos don’t do these meals any justice. It was dark at dinner time so it was hard to really capture how everything looked.
All meals were beautifully plated and served with the added bonus of several creative side dishes that we weren’t expecting. Some of these sides included homemade coleslaw, pan-fried potatoes, and an assortment of cooked veggies and homemade salsas and relishes. The meals were far more than I had expected and had plenty of extras. I asked if they did that special for me because of this review and they said that every guest is treated this way so if you’re wondering about a bang for your meal buck? They OVER-deliver.
One of my favorite things about dining at this guest house is that Dee completely gets into her hospitality role while serving dinner. The dining table is set up with care, candles are lit, ice water is provided. And she puts on her black and white pinstriped apron as if we were dining in a 5-star restaurant.
These two are so down to earth that it felt weird letting them clear up the table after dinner because it was like dining at a friends house. We felt like we should be helping clear the table and do the dishes! Simply wonderful people and it’s no wonder that ALL their reviews on Air BnB are five out of five stars.
The Ambiance
Waterfield Retreat is the true definition of a retreat. During the days, we were left alone to do as we pleased which mostly consisted of hanging around in and around the pool. How could one not want to just chill here? I did drive down the hill once during my stay but only to pick up another Canadian and bring her back up here to hang out with us. She has already been online giving the retreat an amazing review and she didn’t even stay overnight.
Hands down, my favorite time spent here are the evenings. There’s a poolside fire pit that James lights up every night and a spectacular view of Montego Bay after dark. Reggae music pipes through on the yard speakers and we simply sat around drinking and chatting with our hosts until bedtime.
There are very few places I’ve stayed in Jamaica that make me want to give up the road and just “BE” where I’m at. This is one of those places. I was content just being here and not moving. In the mornings you wake up with the fresh cross breeze through your windows to a multitude of singing birds in the distance. It’s a true rain forest feel.
In the afternoons, the pool is the cure for the hot Jamaican sun. And I’ve already told you about evenings. Nuff said.
What’s Nearby?
Although you’re only a short ten-minute drive from Montego Bay, there is nothing else nearby. Not even a little corner shop. However, if you don’t drive yourself there are two vehicles and two hosts on site who have no problem taking you down the hill. If you need to pick up liquor, cigarettes, or random other things don’t fret about being “stuck” up here with nowhere to shop.
If you do drive, as I said it’s a super quick trip into the heart of Montego Bay and depending on traffic, only about twenty minutes drive to the hip strip if you want a beach or shopping day.
The nearest place to eat is only a few minutes away right on the main highway. It’s a huge and very nice jerk center called Texas jerk. They sell cigarettes, flasks of liquor and plenty of food at decent prices.
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Soooo……here’s the part that everyone wants to know – Would I recommend staying here?
In case you didn’t already get the vibe from this glowing review….the answer is ABSOLUTELY!!!!
As I mentioned earlier, it’s very rare that I find an accommodation in Jamaica where I’m just content to sit. This is one of them. It really does have everything a traveler could want – luxury, incredible food, wonderful hosts, and cool vibes. It truly has everything……including a doggy that wants to come home with you.
I would like to thank James and Dee Waterfield so very much for inviting me to their little piece of heaven! I miss them and the dogs already and will definitely drop in for another visit. Probably dinner too!
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